Reviving the Forgotten Tradition of Military Tiaras

While typically associated with royalty or brides, tiaras have a surprising history within the U.S. military. These ornate headpieces were once a staple at formal events for the women serving in various branches of the armed forces. Although their use dwindled, recent celebrations are rekindling interest in these historical accessories.

Decades ago, it wasn't uncommon to see servicewomen donning tiaras at military functions. Currently, such sightings are rare, though the Navy continues to permit them. Behind glass at the Smithsonian Institution, two historic tiaras — brought back into the spotlight through meticulous archiving efforts — serve as artifacts of this forgotten tradition.

Natalie Elder, who manages military collections at the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History, fondly recalls the rediscovery of the tiaras: a Marine Corps design and another from the Army Nurse Corps. She notes the surprise and enthusiasm that followed, as many were unaware of the military's historical embrace of tiaras.

A Tradition Begins

Military tiaras emerged in the 1950s following the formal acceptance of women in active duty roles. These pieces were crafted specifically for galas and significant gatherings. Back then, the military had separate female service chains with leaders like Colonel Emily C. Gorman of the Women's Army Corps wearing distinctive tiaras at events.

The Smithsonian's preserved tiaras belonged to notable women like Mildred Clark of the Army Nurse Corps and Marine Mary Bane, who represented pioneering female leadership. Though not mainstream fashion in the 1950s, these tiaras symbolized the critical roles women began to occupy in the military, all while highlighting feminine grace.

Designs of Distinction

Eschewing the glittering styles known to the public, military tiaras resembled headbands adorned with symbolic motifs. For example, Army tiaras featured laurel wreaths, while the Marine Corps opted for oak leaves, both designs reflecting valor and strength. The Marine design incorporated scarlet wool with gold-thread embroidery, meticulously crafted to embody the prestige of female Marines.

Less is documented about the Army's version, yet it's strikingly similar, with gold embroidery on navy wool.

A Tradition Waning and Reviving

In the subsequent decades, these symbols of military womenhood gradually disappeared. The Marine Corps phased out tiaras in the 1970s, the Army followed, and the Navy held on until recently reversing its decision to retire the tiara in 2015. Now, all ranks may choose to wear it, though it's not compulsory.

Jennifer Bennie, a Navy veteran, recounts finding her vintage tiara at a surplus store, highlighting its uniqueness within the service. The Navy's version is more substantial and features the recognizable eagle and anchor emblem, signifying rank with intricate oak leaf embroidery on black velvet.

The Challenge of Acquisition

Obtaining a new military tiara is no small feat; they are bespoke and involve hand embroidery, with prices varying widely. Some may await months for their personalized piece. Vintage items are increasingly rare, reflecting a past where few women attained the ranks required to don these tiaras.

With the Navy's 250th anniversary looming, tiaras have regained their moment of glory. Bennie notes she shared her tiara with others and wore it to various occasions, bringing joy and curiosity to attendees.

Few military attire pieces can invoke admiration quite like the tiara, says Bennie, placing it among the most cherished pieces female service members are likely to wear.