Embracing Heritage: Ukrainians Blur Lines Between Celebrations

Across the former Soviet bloc, welcoming the new year means indulging in a grandiose feast.

A Nod to the Past: Traditional Festivities

In Washington, D.C., those with roots in the erstwhile Soviet Union may find themselves preparing for a classic New Year's spread, reminiscent of times when Soviet policies replaced Christmas with secular celebrations. This shift encouraged New Year's to stand in for religious observances.

For many who grew up in this environment, the holiday retains its allure as a significant time of gathering and merrymaking.

Signature dishes often included herring cloaked in layers, known as 'herring under a fur coat,' and Olivier salad, similar to a potato salad—a salad heavily reliant on mayonnaise to mask the limited flavors of Soviet-era provisions.

Culinary Revitalization: A Return to Tradition

Recently, Ukrainians have started distancing themselves from these remnants of Soviet influence. There's a growing shift to celebrate Christmas with more emphasis, using the occasion to revive and savor indigenous festive fare.

"A resurgence in our ancient culinary practices is underway," explains Mykola Yudin, the chef spearheading this movement at a prominent Ukrainian restaurant in Washington, D.C.

At the heart of Ukrainian Christmas festivities is kutia, a comforting, sweet dish composed of pearled barley integrated with fruits and nuts. This is traditionally accompanied by a drink made from boiled, dried fruits.

Yudin shares, "This recipe originates from my grandmother."

A Journey from Crisis to Culinary Wisdom

Originating from Donetsk in Ukraine, Yudin relocated first to Kyiv in pursuit of stability amid geopolitical upheaval in 2014, and later to the United States as conflict amplified in 2022.

His efforts have been recognized beyond his kitchen, as he represented Ukraine in a culinary event among international embassies in the U.S., winning best beverage with his black currant liqueur.

Delving into historic literature about Ukrainian gastronomy, Yudin rediscovered ingredients such as almond flour and vanilla, which pre-dated Soviet standardization.

Preservation through Food: Adapting Amid Adversity

Together with Anastasiia Briukh, another Ukrainian expatriate and manager at his restaurant, Yudin supports their families back home by sending essentials like power banks, crucial amid recent power outages due to conflict disruptions.

The debates around territorial peace proposals persist, yet Yudin illuminates a common sentiment: "While we prioritize our heritage and homeland, our people remain our paramount concern."

Ties That Bind: Flavor as Memory

Despite the physical distance from their homeland during such meaningful festivities, the Ukrainian diaspora finds solace in reliving traditions through meals that echo the comforting flavors of home.