My Night in a Sleeper Cabin: 11 Hours, 3 Strangers, 6 Unexpected Lessons

In October 2022, I embarked on an overnight train journey from Austria to Italy, anticipating a time-efficient travel experience across Europe. A string of unanticipated events, however, left me second-guessing the merits of the trip.

On my first European backpacking adventure, I planned to visit Germany, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland within two weeks. To maximize daylight exploration, I opted for an 11-hour train ride from Vienna to Venice, sharing a sleeper cabin with strangers to save money. My $84 ticket covered a bunk and a light breakfast. As the train whisked us across borders, unseen challenges began to unravel.

The Night Train Experience

My journey was aboard the OBB Nightjet, a service operating overnight across Austria, Italy, and beyond at speeds up to 143 mph. These trains offer both seating carriages and sleeper cars, with cabins ranging from solo to six bunks. My reservation was in the multi-bunk arrangement.

Arriving early at Vienna's bustling train station, I was unable to find seating amidst the crowd. Opting for the paid OBB Lounge access, I was taken aback by its emptiness—a welcome contrast to the station's chaos. The lounge offered sparse refreshments compared to Amtrak's lounges in New York, but it sufficed as a respite until boarding.

Boarding Confusion at the Platform

Approaching the departure platform, panic struck when the display showed the train heading to Zurich. A helpful attendant clarified that segments of the train separated mid-journey, each heading to distinct destinations. Advised to board the correct carriage, I scrambled onto the closest car for guidance to my designated cabin.

Reality of Shared Living Space

Stepping into the cabin, I was immediately struck by its scale—74 square feet to accommodate six individuals. As fellow travelers joined, it became clear how restricted personal space truly was. Initially, only one other occupant shared the cabin, but over time, the number grew, magnifying the cramped conditions with luggage strewn across the minimal space.

Privacy Expectations vs. Reality

Expecting privacy curtains, I was surprised to find the bunks exposed. This lack of privacy made changing clothes awkward, opting instead for the shared bathroom when necessary. The absence of barriers also meant little separation from fellow passengers.

Unexpected Nighttime Challenges

The bunks were filled on a first-come, first-served basis. Choosing a bottom bunk to avoid a notoriously rocky upper ride, I didn't foresee the complication of accessing the door lock—a task controlled from the top bunk. Awkward interactions ensued, as I had to wake the occupant above to access the restroom late at night.

Struggling for Sleep

Though the train provided a lie-flat bed, pillows, and sheets, peace eluded me. The bumpiness and noise, coupled with interruptions caused by my cabin-mates' comings and goings, meant sleep was scarce. Preparing to rest, I realized comfort was at a premium.

Learning the Hard Way

Alighting in Venice, I was fatigued and realized my expectations of awakening refreshed had been misplaced. The allure of saving time ultimately resulted in an uncomfortable start to my trip.

Investing in Future Comfort

Having learned through experience, a subsequent European visit in 2023 saw me investing in a Nightjet private cabin from Venice to Vienna. Despite its higher cost of $200, the purchase rewarded me with ample private space and restful sleep—solidifying my commitment to choosing privacy in future overnight train travel.