Mexico's Vanishing Cactus: The Sweet Secret at Risk

In Mexico City, the botanical gardens of the National Autonomous University showcase endangered barrel cactuses, known as biznaga. These iconic plants depict a snapshot of a larger environmental struggle.

Despite restrictions, bars resembling lemon candies are commonly found at Mexico City's Merced market. These bars are actually slices of barrel cactus preserved with sugar, creating a crystallized treat.

Edith Hernández Torres, a vendor at the market, wraps her biznaga bars in cellophane, claiming their unique taste differs from other candied fruits she sells.

"It's chewy, almost like roasted food," Edith describes.

Illegal Yet Irresistible

The Mexican government made selling biznaga illegal in the early 2000s due to its overharvesting and dwindling numbers in the wild. However, demand persists among consumers.

Edith acknowledges the illegality but sees it as part of a larger issue affecting the planet.

María Julia Gutiette delicately selects a bar, preparing for her annual chiles en nogada tradition, cherished for its historical and flavorful significance.

Gutiette's emotional connection to this dish stems from her youth when its cost made it a rare treat. Now, she celebrates with her family, ensuring chiles en nogada includes authentic ingredients.

Patience in Growth: The Biology of Barrel Cactuses

The botanical gardens at the National Autonomous University dedicate an area to the preservation of barrel cactuses, which hold historical significance in Mexico.

Biologist Salvador Arias explains that over 150 species of biznaga exist, many now close to extinction due to environmental changes and human activity.

Arias highlights the slow-growth nature of these cacti, making cultivation unfeasible, leading to their wild harvesting as a primary source of supply.

Optimistically, he believes in their ability to adapt in the face of adversity, drawing parallels to the evolution of the nopal cactus, which survives through new growth.

Preserving a Culinary Heritage

At Azul restaurant, chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita has refrained from using biznaga in his acclaimed chiles en nogada, instead opting for candied squash.

Each August, the restaurant transforms its decor as part of a celebratory ritual marking the availability of the dish, believed by Muñoz to embody the spirit of Mexico.

Despite changing his recipe slightly to accommodate sustainability, Muñoz respects traditional practices and understands why some may resist alterations.

He sees the shift away from using biznaga as a necessary step to ensure these cactuses can flourish naturally once more, highlighting humanity's capacity for change and adaptation.