From Academia to Brewing: A New Chapter in Beijing

Ki Won Yoon wasn't always the co-owner of a thriving kombucha café in Beijing. His journey began in the realms of academia, exploring the mysteries of cosmic origins, until his path crossed with someone special.

Six years back, Yoon was deeply absorbed in his work as a research scientist at Stanford, constantly traveling between California and Beijing for his studies on cosmic microwave background radiation. During one of his visits to Beijing, he swiped right on Tinder and found Shu Yu, with whom he shared an affinity for tea.

In 2020, as the pandemic disrupted air travel worldwide, Yoon left California behind, determined to embark on a new path. "I wanted to dedicate the next phase of my life to something entirely different," he said, reflecting on his journey at age 48.

Yoon was born in Seoul and grew up in Los Angeles, eventually earning a Ph.D. from Caltech after studying astrophysics at UC Berkeley, which led him to Stanford in 2010.

His decision to relocate was driven by a desire to be with his partner, marking the culmination of a long-gestating career transition.

A Shared Vision Takes Shape

Shu Yu, who is 39, had already established herself by running a creative studio. Collaborating with Yoon, they initially ventured into an online business offering boutique teas and teaware. But as their relationship and partnership deepened, they envisioned a venue large enough to brew their own kombucha.

It was on one of their regular visits to a favorite Vietnamese eatery that Shu had a revelation: transform this very spot, which had the rare benefit of a food license, into their dream café.

Without the backing of traditional investors, Yoon and Shu raised about 1.5 million yuan (approximately $200,000) from their circle of friends. In return, they offered stakes in the business. Almost half of this fund was channeled into revamping and gathering equipment. Later, they secured an interest-free loan of 300,000 yuan, followed by an additional 150,000 yuan.

The overhaul was extensive. "We renovated everything from scratch, from subterranean plumbing to the interiors," Yoon revealed. The transformed venue now boasts a gallery, fermentation lab, and kitchen.

Launching the Dream Café

The doors of 010 Beijing Natural opened at the onset of the year, five years post-move. While rooted in tea, the café soon broadened its offerings to include coffee, sake, chocolates, tasting menus, and natural wines. Art exhibits also became a staple feature. Yoon described their mission as creating an environment where the sensory journey extended beyond the acts of eating and drinking.

Their model appears successful, pulling in 300,000 yuan in July alone, which made the operations sustainably profitable. The café's premises cover 2,000 square feet, complemented by a lush courtyard, with rent costing 34,000 yuan monthly.

A Lifestyle of Simplicity

Shu characterized their lifestyle with the phrase tang ping, or 'lying flat,' a popular Chinese movement that embraces a laid-back, stress-free approach to life. "We merely wished to spend our days sipping tea and indulging, and from there, everything just fell into place," Shu shared, speaking in Mandarin to a Business Insider reporter.

Their café also taps into the burgeoning market of functional beverages, which are touted for benefits beyond hydration, like promoting energy, gut health, or boosting immunity. The previous year saw a surge in such products across the Asia-Pacific, with China responsible for 15% of these launches, as revealed by Innova Market Insights.

Linda Zhang, a data analyst at Google and the host of the "Ascent" podcast on budding Chinese enterprises, noted that kombucha could capture a niche market eager to invest in both beverages and art.

"Consumer spending on dining and drinks appears to be declining," Zhang shared. She emphasized the value of hybrid models for staying relevant.

With nearly three million restaurants in China shutting down in 2024 due to reduced dining out, according to data from Qichacha, the stakes are high. Yet, the duo believes in their blend of tea, artistry, and community engagement to weather the storm.

Redefining Work and Life Balance

Operating the café doesn't come with defined roles for Shu and Yoon. "I like transforming my passions into shareable experiences," Shu noted, describing herself as impulsive and often spearheading fresh ideas and partnerships.

Yoon, in contrast, is detail-oriented, focusing on refining processes. He is known for being meticulous, continually observing and addressing issues on the spot, according to Shu.

Their establishment is open four days a week and often stretches into the wee hours. In July, an ensemble of young opera singers lingered until 2 a.m., reveling in the space's atmosphere over multiple wine bottles. Yoon shared that witnessing such enjoyment makes the late hours worthwhile.

Time management and energy are two resources they find perpetually scarce, Yoon admitted, saying it can become a challenge to carry out everything they envision.

During a recent weekend visit from Business Insider, guests explored the discreet entry of 010 Beijing Natural. Inside, Tibetan rugs adorned the walls for a featured exhibit, and guests—dressed in stylish garb—sipped kombucha and craft beers. The courtyard's tree served as a picturesque backdrop for couple's snaps, while groups savored beverages in the rear.

Yoon served flights of kombucha in an array of vintage Scandinavian stemware, pricing two half pours at 50 yuan. Their yan cha-based kombucha, made from oolong cultivated in Fujian's mineral-rich hills, often sells out.

Dining options include Sichuan-spiced sausages and cuttlefish dumplings, with desserts like yak butter madeleines and rich chocolate puddings—each presented on elegant red Japanese lacquered plates.

Despite his background in research, much of Yoon's current engagement involves interacting with patrons and collaborators. He picked up Mandarin on the go, coordinating complex renovations with non-English speaking workers. Now he's conversant in everyday exchanges but leans on Shu for intricate dialogues.

Reflecting on his pivot from science to entrepreneurship, Yoon harbors no regrets. "It wasn't merely a professional break," he muses. "It was a leap into the unknown."