Celebrating Seven Decades: The Enmanji Teriyaki Barbecue Legacy

On Sunday, the community of Sebastopol joyously celebrated the 70th anniversary of a local favorite, the Enmanji Teriyaki Barbecue. This North Bay event has become renowned not only for its cherished teriyaki chicken prepared with a generations-old recipe but also for its powerful lessons in community and resilience.

Every year, the Enmanji Buddhist Temple plays host to a much-anticipated gathering where thousands from the community indulge in a feast featuring succulent barbecue chicken infused with a uniquely Japanese twist. The secret to this culinary delight lies in the teriyaki sauce—a well-guarded family recipe—sprayed over the 1,200 chickens that slowly roast over massive coal fires.

Brent Ono, a seasoned barbecue expert, has been at the grill for countless years. He shared, "I've lost track of the years. Following in the footsteps of my father, a third-generation participant, my brother and I represent the fourth generation at the pit. It's an honor to continue this beloved tradition."

Despite many eager requests, the recipe remains a cherished secret. "Originated by my two grandfathers, the formula is closely guarded," explains event co-leader Julene Leach. "Its uniqueness was so admired that Kikkoman once sought the rights, which we declined. Eventually, they created their own version, but it doesn't match ours."

The annual gathering was paused for three years due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Yet, it has seen a remarkable resurgence in recent years, gradually regaining its former magnitude.

Walking through the vibrant event, one can sense its strong community ties, as noted by Julene, who appears to know or share connections with many attendees in the nearly 5,000-strong crowd.

A Temple with Historical Significance

The celebration centers around an iconic temple constructed for the 1934 Chicago World's Fair. "Post-fair, it was dismantled, transported to Sebastopol, and reassembled with the help of the local community," Julene recounts.

Tragically, during World War II, the temple faced attempts at vandalism but was protected by local youth. A group of teens from various faiths stood vigil for two weeks, safeguarding the temple as a testament to friendship and unity amidst unjust wartime internment.

Julene reflects on the lesson drawn from that time: "The message is timeless—embrace love and kindness each day." Her father, Martin Shimizu, at 94, deeply appreciates the acceptance they found upon returning to Sebastopol after the war.

In the words of community member Glen Pinnow, "The internment ordeal is a painful legacy, yet the Japanese American community moved past it, and this town played its part in protecting its cultural landmarks, including the temple."

Decades on, the Enmanji Teriyaki Barbecue continues to foster a spirit of unity and belonging, reminding everyone of the unnecessary fears of the past and the enduring strength of community bonds.