Vineyards Uproot Grapes Amid Declining Demand

By CBS News

In a typical year, Garret Schaefer's expansive vineyard in California converts its grapes into various high-quality wines. However, this year marks a departure from tradition. A substantial portion, approximately fifty acres, translating to 400 tons, of grapes are left unharvested and are withering due to an oversupply exhausting demand.

"They are simply morphing into raisins before dropping off the vine," lamented Schaefer.

Data from the International Organization of Wine and Vine reveals a significant global drop in wine consumption for 2023, mirroring the unused 3.5 billion bottles.

Schaefer attributes these challenges to rising inflation, which caused a surge of over 13% in wine price per liter over the recent five years, as per the Federal Reserve Board's findings in St. Louis. The situation worsened as the World Health Organization issued advisories against wine for health reasons. Moreover, younger generations are not as enthusiastic about wine compared to their predecessors, the baby boomers.

Brianda Gonzalez represents this shift, noting a personal realization of the health drawbacks of regular wine consumption.

"My father, who made his career as a bartender, needed to eliminate alcohol from his lifestyle after health issues arose. This led me into the realm of non-alcoholic alternatives, a category that captured my interest," Gonzalez shared.

Gonzalez now prefers and sells non-alcoholic beverages at her California store. Her clientele includes Sarah and Helen Chacon, who frequently purchase such alternatives.

"I have never been inclined to drink wine, much preferring alternatives," Helen Chacon commented.

Sarah Chacon echoed her sister's sentiments, reducing her intake for "health-related concerns."

California, producing 80% of national wine grapes, dramatically feels these effects.

With a career spanning over half a century, Don Worley specialized in managing unproductive vines. Nowadays, he is engaged to uproot them entirely. Utilizing heavy equipment, his team methodically removes acres of vines. According to Worley, a single tractor can clear up to 30 acres daily.

"How much has this cost the owner? Roughly $20,000 for each acre, and now that investment is literally being pulled from the soil," Worley expressed.

Schaefer has overseen the removal of 60 acres, which constitutes a third of his family's vineyard that dates back to 1894. Additionally, the workforce which once ranged from six to eight full-time employees has dwindled down to just two workers.

The forecast is bleak, with experts advising the uprooting of 50,000 more acres — a measure covering 8% of remaining Californian vineyards. It signifies a harsher reality far removed from merely sour grapes.