Our 3-Day Adventure Trek in Ecuador: Hiking at 82 and 73

Inspired by a friend's journey a year prior, we embarked on hiking the Quilotoa Loop, a challenging venture through the highlands of the Ecuadorian Andes. The trek, culminating at a staggering 13,000 feet around a volcanic crater lake, promised both a test of endurance and stunning views.

Contrary to the name, the Quilotoa Loop is a linear path stretching 22 miles, requiring adventurers to conquer a 7,100-foot climb. Enthusiastic about long treks, my husband and I, aged 82 and 73, were determined to take on this challenge in April, despite its rigorous demands.

Acclimating to the High Altitude

We spent two days in Quito to get accustomed to the altitude before setting out. From there, a $45 Uber ride took us on a two-and-a-half-hour journey to Sigchos, where our trek began. Arriving during the rainy season, we were lone guests among hardy locals engaged in their rugged, elevated lives.

A hearty meal and the comfort of our lodge could not quiet my worries about the journey awaiting us, especially with the likelihood of afternoon thunderstorms.

Our mornings consistently started around dawn with a strong breakfast. Covering only 6-8 miles daily, we had to moderate our pace as the altitude added exertion to every step.

The path was daunting—steep, unsettled, and often boggy. My progress was hindered by a metal-pinned ankle prone to pain, while Barry confronted the residual fatigue from his lymphoma treatment.

Unexpected Challenges on the Trail

Shortly outside Sigchos, we encountered an unmarked mudslide that led us to retrace our steps. Afterward, we navigated a creek and began the arduous ascent of the canyon, an endeavor fraught with sodden ground.

Our relief was palpable upon reaching a paved road, though the village of Isinlivi was deceptively distant, taking another grueling hour among slippery paths. Achieving a 1,450-foot ascent in six miles took us six tiring hours.

Luxurious Rest Stops Along the Way

The Isinlivi hostel exceeded our expectations, offering comforts akin to a high-end retreat, complete with warm meals, internet, and even relaxation amenities. There, we met another hiking family, who were as much guests of the accommodating host as we were.

Subsequent lodging was simpler but equipped with steam rooms laced with eucalyptus, where I savored an hour of respite amidst rain-soaked tranquility.

Concluding the Trek: The Most Grueling Day

Our final stretch involved a strenuous 3,650-foot climb to the lake's zenith. As the caldera's azure waters stretched before us, the finish line remained distant. Missing our intended path added an hour to our trek, drenching us as the skies finally broke.

Once in Quilotoa, generous hostel caretakers offered warmth from a crackling fire and nourishing meals that rejuvenated our spirits and bodies.

A Demanding Yet Inspirational Journey

Though the journey challenged us physically, its beauty was undeniable—majestic valleys and verdant pasturelands alive with wildlife. The simplicity of walking amidst such splendor felt transformative.

Reflecting on our return to life at sea level, I carry with me the vigor of the mountain folk we met and am invigorated to redefine my own limits. Embracing the Quilotoa Loop was a testament to capabilities I continue to explore in my golden years.